The Return of Coriander in Fragrance

The humble coriander, a culinary staple known as much for its divisive reputation as its distinct aroma, is having a moment in the fragrance world. This herb, which can make people respond with either delight or disgust depending on genetic predisposition, is finding new life in perfumes, candles, and home scents. Once relegated to the spice cabinet, coriander is now front and center in some of the most experimental fragrances of the year.

A Tale of Two Aromas

Coriander’s dual identity, spanning from its herbaceous leaves to its warm, spicy seeds, makes it a fascinating choice for perfumers. While the leaf exudes green, metallic notes, the seed is softer, with hints of rosewood and light spice. This versatility has allowed coriander to transition seamlessly from ancient times, where it reportedly perfumed the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, to modern-day creations like Guy Laroche’s Drakkar Noir and Jean Couturier’s Coriandre.

But today’s coriander renaissance is about more than nostalgia—it’s about challenging perceptions.

Le Labo’s Coriandre 39, part of its exclusive City Collection, exemplifies the new wave of coriander-centric scents. With bold herbaceous top notes and a citrus burst, the fragrance mellows into warm, musky depths. Deborah Royer, Le Labo’s global brand president, describes it as an invitation to rethink what a perfume can be.

There’s also DS & Durga, known for its edgy approach to perfumery, which features coriander prominently in its best-selling fragrance Coriander. Co-founder David Moltz likens the herb to Marmite—a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient that underscores the brand’s ethos of embracing the overlooked.

A Trend Rooted in Individuality

Coriander’s resurgence reflects a broader trend in the fragrance industry: a move toward polarizing, nontraditional ingredients that prioritize individuality over mass appeal. As consumers increasingly seek scents that feel personal and distinctive, the industry is responding with bold, unconventional choices.